Moto Guzzi Open House

The Moto Guzzi factory held its annual Open House in Mandello del Lario, beside Lake Como, from September 12-15, 2024. According to the locals, the 2021 Open House for the 100th Anniversary of the historic maker brought 30,000 motorcyclists and aficionados to the small lakeside town despite the pandemic. Estimates put this year’s rally at about that same figure. My crew arrived a few days early to ride along the lake and in the surrounding mountains, and to take in Mandello’s transformation from a factory town of about 10,000 residents to a major motorcycle destination.^[1] Each day more riders rolled in from across Italy, Germany, Belgium, Austria, France, the UK and even Australia to demo Guzzi’s latest models, visit the museum and factory and, of course, check out each other’s machines, not all of which were Guzzis. Several Moto Guzzi riding clubs set up tent to showcase their vintage beauties and highlight their racing credentials from the Motogiro d’Italia, Milano-Taranto and the 8 delle Langhe.

I was struck by the number of vintage Moto Guzzis displayed in store fronts, espresso bars, restaurants and clothing shops. I asked a bookstore owner if the bikes were always out, or just for special occasions? She replied that some shops do keep bikes in their windows all year, but many others show off their usually garaged gems during the Open House and other special events. These motorcycles recount not only the history of the maker’s production but also demonstrate the role of the factory in the development of the town, and the culture of its residents. Nearly everyone in Mandello has a connection to Moto Guzzi, or related business like Lafranconi, which makes silencers for motorcycle exhausts. As our Airbnb host Paolo, a former Lafranconi employee and a motorcyclist, pointed out, “This side of the lake has never been a tourist center. Tourists go to Bellagio, Como [where the Concorso di Eleganza is held], Menaggio, but they don’t come here. Until a few years ago, there were not even many places where people could stay. The Guzzi Open Houses have changed all that.”^[2] In fact, the historic center, which is normally closed to vehicular traffic, allowed motorcycles to enter and park and filled the atmosphere with a sort of moto magic during the days of the rally.

My conversation with Roberto Lanfranconi (same last name but no relation) helped me understand the factory town feeling that still exists in Mandello and surrounding areas.  Roberto coordinates the guides for the Moto Guzzi Museum and worked for the company for more than 30 years. “There’s a feeling of friendship in this place that goes back to the fact that Moto Guzzi was founded by good friends. Carlo Guzzi, Giovanni Ravelli, Giorgio Parodi. Their relationship made all this possible and is still key to the success of the company and our town today.” The vintage bikes serve as reminders of technological advancements, visions in design, and even some business failures. More importantly, however, they connect the people of the present to those of the past. For motorcyclists interested primarily in engine displacements, horsepower, torque, etc., the history of brands might not be relevant to making a motorcycle purchase. But for riders who appreciate the story of motorcycling’s early visionaries, such as Carlo Guzzi, and see themselves as following in a tradition of innovation and adventure, the Open House is much more than a place to test ride a new motorcycle or pick up the latest gear.

The Moto Guzzi Museum is generally open during the week by appointment for a 90-minute guided tour. During weekends and for the Open House, the public is welcome to wander through at their leisure. Unless you are already well-versed in the history of the Moto Guzzi and its models, I would recommend a guided tour.^[3] The collection is vast and nicely displayed but there are not many descriptions posted or context offered. This will likely change when a new museum (and factory) opens in the next couple of years. American architect Greg Lynn, who rides a California Audace, is currently working with Piaggio and Moto Guzzi to modernize the facility without compromising its setting. Space is limited between the hills and the lake, which keeps production numbers limited as well. Discussions of moving the factory out of Mandello, some locals told us, were met with hostility. Currently, the V85 model is assembled in the Aprilia factory in the Veneto, while the rest are still built in Mandello. In any case, I appreciated the range of models on display, including the earliest and latest examples of Moto Guzzi’s production line.

Outside the Moto Guzzi campus, the Carlo Guzzi Point and the Mandello Archivio Comunale (Town Archives) fill in gaps for anyone seeking more information about the regional motorcycle industry.^[4] The Carlo Guzzi Point is a historic motorcycle club that maintains an archival collection of documents, motorcycle models and other items pertinent to Moto Guzzi history, such as an old wooden bar counter where Carlo and friends conversed over drinks. The local historical society/archive provides maps for walking tours related to Moto Guzzi and manufacturing in Mandello. You can see where the executives versus workers lived, visit the public gardens where Guzzi held riding schools, or visit the nearby hydroelectric plants that power the factory. During the Open House, there was also a small swap meet for anyone seeking parts or a vintage Guzzi to work on.  And numerous customized Guzzis were on display in a blocked off section of the main road that skirts the lake.

One thing I could not do, however, was buy a bottle of wine. The town had banned sales of beverages in glass bottles and cans during the rally to cut down on litter and bad behavior. Of course, beer, served in plastic cups, and food were widely available. Rally goers were also treated to concerts and film screenings each evening, including Volevo Nascondermi about artist Antonio Ligabue.[see our article and film of Ligabue]  I did not see many examples of ‘bikers gone wild’ or the sort of behavior that characterizes Sturgis or Daytona Bike Week.  The people of Mandello set a tone of decorum that its many visitors seemed to appreciate while still having a good time and swapping stories with other motorcyclists.

^[1] Before the rally, we rented a Moto Guzzi V85TT and a Stelvio from Agostini Mandello https://www.agostinimandello.com/rent-test-ride and rode the Passo Agueglio into the pre-Alps. On the last day, we were able to rent just one V85TT and I rode on the back over the Passo San Marco. Both routes are highly recommended for anyone who enjoys hairpin turns and spectacular views without all the traffic of the more famous Passo Stelvio.

^[2] I booked an apartment in April for the September rally. There are not many apartments in the center of town so I suggest reserving early.

^[3] There were guides available to answer questions. I relied on my Italian husband, whose first full size motorcycle was a Moto Guzzi V35 Imola.

^[4] See their web site at www.archiviomandello.it for many interesting documents and images.

^[5] See Paul d’Orleans’ recent article about the artist. https://thevintagent.com/2024/07/15/artist-and-his-moto-guzzis-antonio-ligabue/