The Lost Empire of Leathertogs, Part 4

[Written and researched by Riley Ward, edited by Paul d’Orléans]

The Leathertogs Legacy

During World War II, restrictions on certain materials were imposed by the U.S. government, in support of the hundreds of thousands of soldiers needing clothing, equipment, and weaponry.  Materials shortages strained operations for many small civilian-oriented manufacturers, and Leathertogs was no exception.

Nonetheless, Leathertogs continued producing garments and fulfilling orders for ordinary riders and leather enthusiasts, some from as far afield as Oregon and Washington via mail orders. Henry Shaw maintained a strong relationship with The Motorcyclist magazine, placing advertisements in most issues and corresponding with the editors and the public through open letters. In a wartime issue, the magazine featured a note from Shaw himself, stating:

“Of course, government restriction on leather and other materials is cramping Mr. Shaw’s style, but when things ease up… there will be a line of ‘Leathertogs’-designed and built clothing and accessories that will knock out your eye.”

Despite these challenges, Shaw remained committed to his business, continuing to supply much of his retail trade and “still cheering for motorcycling—the King of Sports.” His resilience and optimism during this difficult period reflected the spirit of the brand, carrying it forward to better times and reinforcing its deep connection to American riders.

The End of an Era: Henry Shaw’s Passing

Before the war ended, on February 1, 1945, Henry Franklin Shaw passed away suddenly at the age of 56. His obituary was published in the March 1945 issue of The Motorcyclist. His daughter, Dorothy Shaw Calhoun (1918–1998), added additional remarks to the tribute:

The sudden death of H.F. Shaw, Everett, Massachusetts, on February first has taken from our ranks another of the grand old men of motorcycling – though H.F. wasn’t really old in years, only 56 years of age, and in his heart he was as young as the newest rider.

Mr. Shaw was best known to the motorcycle fraternity as manufacturer of the famous brand of “Leathertogs” cycle clothing and as the man in his community who was the friend and confidant of every motorcycle rider, old or young, boy or girl.  His heart was great.  His spirit bright.  He suffered serious business reversed during his career of manufacturing, yet he never broke or soured under hi adversities.

Those whose privilege it was to be his close friends best know the indomitable spirit of this fine man, his charitable heart, happy temperament and his keen interest in everything that pertained to the realm of motorcycling.

Mr. Shaw leaves a widow, a son Elwin, now on duty in the Burma area and a daughter, Dorothy Shaw Calhoun, who until some months ago was stewardess on the transcontinental airlines. Dorothy writes that “there will be no more Leathertogs. There is no one left to carry it on.” It’s a pity, but perhaps for the best, after all.  It was in the designing and tailoring of his garments for motorcyclists that H.F. Shaw found outlet for his pride in workmanship and quality. An inferior line of goods bearing his proud “Leathertogs” label would outrage his spirit.

With Henry’s death, Leathertogs ceased operations. The fate of the factory, equipment, and materials remains unknown. Following the closure, Henry’s son Elwin embarked on a career as a magician and ‘pick-pocket specialist’ entertainer, performing for servicemen and police audiences; he died in 1966. Dorothy pursued careers in nursing and aviation, eventually settling in Denton, Texas, to raise a family. Henry’s wife Helen passed away a few years after him, though the exact date remains unknown.

Legacy and Mystique

Leathertogs is remembered today as a premier innovator in motorcycle apparel, blending practical design with rugged style. Surviving examples are considered ‘holy grails’ among collectors and enthusiasts. Their iconic design, custom labels, snap fasteners and hardware, and high-grade horsehide distinguish these pieces, drive collectors crazy with curiosity, and have inspired many more recent replicas from various manufacturers.

Many questions linger about the brand, some of which may remain unanswered: the full nature of Leathertogs’ relationship with Beck Distributing Co. of New York City (explored in Part 5); the fate of the factory contents; the designs of the earliest garments; what the shop looked like (no street views or interior photos have been found…yet); what it was like to step into Leathertogs and order a custom garment from Henry; and what Henry himself was like, including his other interests and life experiences. What is certain, however, is that Henry Franklin Shaw’s commitment to quality and innovation established Leathertogs as a benchmark in motorcycle gear—one whose legend still rides on.

With the passing of Henry Franklin Shaw in February 1945, and the heartfelt obituary published in The Motorcyclist that March, Leathertogs quietly faded from the forefront of the American motorcycle scene. Shaw’s death marked not only the end of his personal craftsmanship but also the closure of the Everett, Massachusetts, workshop that had outfitted many of the country’s early riders.  As his daughter’s note in the obituary read, “There will be no more Leathertogs. There is no one left to carry it on,” meaning not just that his family had no interest or the skills required to carry on, but also that Shaw had no manager or shop foreman capable of assuming control of manufacturing – if his production could truly be called that.  Leathertogs might more accurately be considered a small custom leather shop with a big impact.

Through years of my personal research—scouring countless issues of The Motorcyclist and Harley-Davidson’s in-house magazine, The Enthusiast, from the 1930s through the 1950s—it becomes evident that Leathertogs’ prominence peaked in the mid-to-late 1930s and continued through the mid-1940s. Photographs and articles from this era show numerous riders proudly wearing Shaw’s distinctive gear. By the late 1940s and into the 1950s, however, Leathertogs disappeared entirely from both photographs and publications, signaling the brand’s quiet exit from the stage it had helped define.

The postwar years ushered in a new generation of leather manufacturers with stronger production capabilities, wider distribution, and aggressive marketing. Brands such as Buco, Harley-Davidson, Beck, Sears, and Montgomery Ward began offering competitively-priced motorcycle-specific jackets and breeches on a much larger scale. These companies filled the market vacuum left by Leathertogs, producing in greater volume and adapting to changing tastes in rider’s apparel. With many soldiers (especially aviators) being issued leather gear during the war, it became more commonplace to see citizens wearing leather on motorcycles, and leather became everyday riding gear, rather than specialist or competition apparel.

Most surviving Leathertogs pieces and period photographs trace back to the late 1930s through the early 1940s—likely the company’s height in both creativity and output. Many riders who once wore Leathertogs had aged out of competition or daily motorcycling by the late 1940s, settling into family life and leaving their once-prized jackets stored away. As time passed, those garments—built for the lean, sporting bodies of their youth—no longer fit, both literally and figuratively, the lives of their owners who had outgrown them.

The final Leathertogs customers were likely served in late 1944 or early 1945, just before Henry Shaw’s passing. In the years that followed, a new generation of manufacturers redefined the look of motorcycling apparel. Buco’s J-100 ‘racing shirt’ became a postwar motorcycle racing staple, while companies such as Schott and Durable popularized three-pocket double-breasted motorcycle jackets, as immortalized by Marlon Brando’s character ‘Johnny’ in the 1953 film The Wild One. Leathertog’s distinctive D-pocket jackets, once synonymous with the adventurous spirit of the 1930s and early 1940s, fell out of style, but the foundation laid by Leathertogs endured.

Leathertogs’ influence persisted in the overall designs, jacket models, patterns, and small metal embellishments adopted by later manufacturers. The distinctive D-pocket and other design elements were notably carried forward in some of Sears’ ‘Hercules’-labeled motorcycle jackets, and in Buco’s J-21, J-22, J-24, and J-31 models. These garments demonstrate how Leathertogs’ aesthetics, functional innovations, and attention to detail quietly shaped the next generation of motorcycle apparel.  The business that Henry Shaw founded in 1919 in Everett, Massachusetts, created designs that rippled through decades of motorcycle culture, and are an enduring testament to Shaw’s craftsmanship, born from passion, ingenuity, and a love of the open road.

 

Read the whole Leathertogs saga in Parts 1-5 of The Lost Empire of Leathertogs.