Riley Ward

The Lost Empire of Leathertogs, Part 5

[Written and researched by Riley Ward, edited by Paul d’Orléans]

Clarifying Historical Misconceptions

There are plenty of brands that would love to be known as the originators of the biker jacket.  Some have famously claimed as much, as well as for famous jackets made iconic in the movies, but turning up actual evidence for such claims has proved problematic.   Leather fans and amateur historians have formed different opinions on the matter, which typically contradict what has become the 'official' narrative (ie, 'Schott invented the biker jacket, and provided Marlon Brando's jacket in The Wild One').  With what is essentially crowdsourced research, we seem to be closer to an accurate picture of the history of leather motorcycle gear, and who provided what to whom, though the actual cross-connections between brands has caused considerable confusion.

One of the lingering questions about Leathertogs concerns the Harley-Davidson 'Motorclothes' line: despite various claims and information circulated at the time, there is currently no verified evidence—through labeled garments, documentation, or contracts—that Leathertogs manufactured long horsehide coats or other leather garments for Harley-Davidson. While the companies were certainly aware of each other’s operations, there is no substantiated link of collaboration. What is more likely is that Leathertogs sold jackets, long coats, and other riding items to Harley-Davidson and Indian motorcycle authorized dealerships, such as C. H. Lang (1704 Michigan Avenue, Chicago), who offered them alongside other riding garments and sundries in their showrooms.

The Beck connection

 

Another area of speculation concerns leather motorcycle jackets sold under the Beck label, which share many similarities with Leathertogs design features—such as Talon zippers, D-pocket shapes, woven label graphics, underarm gussets, sloped-shoulder designs, riveted stress points, and collar shapes. Currently, there is only one early conclusive piece of documentation about an overlap of these brands: an advertisement from a 1928 issue of Motorcycle and Bicycle Illustrated that contains both Leathertogs (with a jacket illustration and their Malden, Massachusetts, location) as well as Beck’s name and address within the same advertisement. This suggests that Leathertogs did, in fact, produce some jackets or garments on contract for Beck.

Schott has claimed responsibility for Beck jacket production, but their variations differ notably from Beck’s late-1930s–into–early-1940s iconic “333” models. It is widely believed—by the author of this piece and other reputable collectors and researchers with hands-on experience—that Beck’s early jackets were produced by Leathertogs at one of their locations. These appear to be inspired by Leathertogs designs with simplified construction, made for mass-production, rather than the bespoke approach of Leathertogs per se.  The designs reflect input from Beck regarding specific customizations, available materials, and their intention to appeal to a broader range of motorcycle riders.

Leathertogs lives on...through Sears

After the closure of Leathertogs in 1945, its design lineage survived directly through Beck, forming the basis for the most popular and best-selling motorcycle jackets in the USA and perhaps the world, through Sears Roebuck & Co.  Beck was contracted to produce a line of leather motorcycle jackets for Sears, sold from 1949 onwards under the in-house Allstate and Hercules labels.   These early Sears jackets are clearly based on Leathertogs designs, and were made from the start for both men and women, made in both cowhide and horsehide, with a material unavailable to Henry Shaw: nylon lining.

T. Mitchell, a moderator on the menswear forum Fedora Lounge (with nearly 60,000 members), has done terrific research into the history of the Sears leather jacket, documenting every appearance of the biker jacket in Sears catalogs from 1949 onwards.  His thread 'Sears Motorcycle Jacket History 1949-1963' gives interesting view on how leather motorcycle gear was popularized after WW2:

"Sears is credited as the largest supplier of traditional cross-zip motorcycle jackets. Not surprising given their huge retail presence in the 1950s. 1949 is the first year that the Sears catalog shows a traditional motorcycle jacket: black horsehide with a wool lining. The catalog describes red, green, and black linings. The wool-lined jackets only lasted a couple of years, and wool lining was quickly replaced with the “new” nylon lining, which was the all the rage. Buco [who apparently made the leather jackets for Sears - ed.] also dropped their early-wool lined jackets for the new material. Wool linings in jackets seem to end around this early '50s, replaced with the more modern material."

Leathertogs in the Vintage World Today: The Phantom Grails

In the world of vintage leather and motorcycle gear collecting, Leathertogs garments are considered the stuff of legend. Rare, coveted, and exceptionally valuable, original Leathertogs jackets and breeches are among the most desirable pieces a collector can find—if they can find one at all. Due to their scarcity, collectors often refer to these garments as “Phantoms.” They surface so infrequently on the market that spotting one—let alone acquiring one—feels like encountering a ghost from another era. When original Leathertogs pieces do appear, they command top-tier prices. Depending on factors such as condition, model configuration, and custom features, a Leathertogs jacket can fetch anywhere from $1,800 to over $30,000. Intricate, customized examples and well-preserved pieces are especially sought after, and men’s garments tend to sell at a premium compared to women’s.

A defining characteristic of Leathertogs garments is their woven interior label, often accompanied by the original owner’s name and address. Many surviving examples trace back to East Coast states, including Massachusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island, New Hampshire, Vermont, Maine, New York, and Pennsylvania. Thanks to Leathertogs’ robust mail-order system, pieces have also surfaced from as far west as Washington, Oregon, and Nebraska, demonstrating the brand’s wide nationwide reach and broad appeal.

These garments were not just stylish; they were functional, made for hard riding in unpredictable conditions. Whether a standard model or a custom commission, each Leathertogs piece reflects Henry F. Shaw’s vision for craftsmanship, attention to detail, and rider-focused design. It is no surprise, then, that some surviving examples now reside in private collections and museums, including the Harley-Davidson Museum, and that brands today continue to use original Leathertogs garments as templates for exacting reproductions.

To discover an original Leathertogs jacket—to hold it, feel the weight and grain of the leather, see the meticulous stitching and historical wear patterns—is more than just a collector’s joy. It is a direct connection to the motorcycling pioneers of the early 20th century and a testament to Henry Shaw’s legacy as a forgotten innovator who helped shape the intersection of style, sport, and utility.

Last Thoughts from the Author

Although this article is now published, I want readers to know that this is still a living, ongoing project. My research into Leathertogs and the legacy of Henry Franklin Shaw continues, and any new, credible information I uncover—or that readers may wish to share—will be added to a master record. My hope is to periodically update the historical record and keep expanding what's known and accessible about this unique and pioneering company and Henry Shaw's life.

There are still many things I’m searching for: a photo of the original Leathertogs store or factory, any information on employees, unseen photographs of riders wearing Leathertogs gear, and surviving examples of garments—especially jacket and breeches models that are currently undocumented in the vintage community. Each new discovery, no matter how small, adds invaluable depth to the story. If you have anything to share—photos, documents, anecdotes, or artifacts—please don’t hesitate to reach out. All information will be kept confidential, and permission will always be requested before anything is shared or published.

Thank you very much for reading. I hope this work has illuminated the historical importance of
Leathertogs and helped you come to admire Henry Shaw as I do—for his innovation, creativity,
and enduring craftsmanship.

Warmly,
Riley Ward

Acknowledgments
I would like to thank everyone who inspired and helped along the way, including David Himel of Himel Bros. Leather (himelbros.com), author Rin Tanaka (myfreedamn.com), Jonathan Evenchen (@vintageleatherjawn on Instagram), Stuart Clurman of Lost Worlds NYC (lostworldsinc.com), Johnny (@us.blues on Instagram), and many others who generously shared knowledge, photographs, and pieces from their private collections. I am also deeply grateful to my dear friend MJ Quinn, who contributed to the research of Henry Shaw’s life and background.

A very special thank you goes to Henry’s living granddaughter, Kerry, who warmly and graciously shared personal stories about her grandfather, as well as never-before-seen photographs of Henry, his wife Helen, their son Elwin, and daughter Dorothy.

 

Read the whole Leathertogs saga in Parts 1-5 of The Lost Empire of Leathertogs.

 

 

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by Riley Ward

The Lost Empire of Leathertogs, Part 4

[Written and researched by Riley Ward, edited by Paul d’Orléans]

The Leathertogs Legacy

During World War II, restrictions on certain materials were imposed by the U.S. government, in support of the hundreds of thousands of soldiers needing clothing, equipment, and weaponry.  Materials shortages strained operations for many small civilian-oriented manufacturers, and Leathertogs was no exception.

Nonetheless, Leathertogs continued producing garments and fulfilling orders for ordinary riders and leather enthusiasts, some from as far afield as Oregon and Washington via mail orders. Henry Shaw maintained a strong relationship with The Motorcyclist magazine, placing advertisements in most issues and corresponding with the editors and the public through open letters. In a wartime issue, the magazine featured a note from Shaw himself, stating:

“Of course, government restriction on leather and other materials is cramping Mr. Shaw’s style, but when things ease up… there will be a line of ‘Leathertogs’-designed and built clothing and accessories that will knock out your eye.”

Despite these challenges, Shaw remained committed to his business, continuing to supply much of his retail trade and “still cheering for motorcycling—the King of Sports.” His resilience and optimism during this difficult period reflected the spirit of the brand, carrying it forward to better times and reinforcing its deep connection to American riders.

The End of an Era: Henry Shaw’s Passing

Before the war ended, on February 1, 1945, Henry Franklin Shaw passed away suddenly at the age of 56. His obituary was published in the March 1945 issue of The Motorcyclist. His daughter, Dorothy Shaw Calhoun (1918–1998), added additional remarks to the tribute:

The sudden death of H.F. Shaw, Everett, Massachusetts, on February first has taken from our ranks another of the grand old men of motorcycling - though H.F. wasn't really old in years, only 56 years of age, and in his heart he was as young as the newest rider.

Mr. Shaw was best known to the motorcycle fraternity as manufacturer of the famous brand of "Leathertogs" cycle clothing and as the man in his community who was the friend and confidant of every motorcycle rider, old or young, boy or girl.  His heart was great.  His spirit bright.  He suffered serious business reversed during his career of manufacturing, yet he never broke or soured under hi adversities.

Those whose privilege it was to be his close friends best know the indomitable spirit of this fine man, his charitable heart, happy temperament and his keen interest in everything that pertained to the realm of motorcycling.

Mr. Shaw leaves a widow, a son Elwin, now on duty in the Burma area and a daughter, Dorothy Shaw Calhoun, who until some months ago was stewardess on the transcontinental airlines. Dorothy writes that "there will be no more Leathertogs. There is no one left to carry it on." It's a pity, but perhaps for the best, after all.  It was in the designing and tailoring of his garments for motorcyclists that H.F. Shaw found outlet for his pride in workmanship and quality. An inferior line of goods bearing his proud "Leathertogs" label would outrage his spirit.

With Henry’s death, Leathertogs ceased operations. The fate of the factory, equipment, and materials remains unknown. Following the closure, Henry's son Elwin embarked on a career as a magician and 'pick-pocket specialist' entertainer, performing for servicemen and police audiences; he died in 1966. Dorothy pursued careers in nursing and aviation, eventually settling in Denton, Texas, to raise a family. Henry's wife Helen passed away a few years after him, though the exact date remains unknown.

Legacy and Mystique

Leathertogs is remembered today as a premier innovator in motorcycle apparel, blending practical design with rugged style. Surviving examples are considered 'holy grails' among collectors and enthusiasts. Their iconic design, custom labels, snap fasteners and hardware, and high-grade horsehide distinguish these pieces, drive collectors crazy with curiosity, and have inspired many more recent replicas from various manufacturers.

Many questions linger about the brand, some of which may remain unanswered: the full nature of Leathertogs’ relationship with Beck Distributing Co. of New York City (explored in Part 5); the fate of the factory contents; the designs of the earliest garments; what the shop looked like (no street views or interior photos have been found…yet); what it was like to step into Leathertogs and order a custom garment from Henry; and what Henry himself was like, including his other interests and life experiences. What is certain, however, is that Henry Franklin Shaw’s commitment to quality and innovation established Leathertogs as a benchmark in motorcycle gear—one whose legend still rides on.

With the passing of Henry Franklin Shaw in February 1945, and the heartfelt obituary published in The Motorcyclist that March, Leathertogs quietly faded from the forefront of the American motorcycle scene. Shaw’s death marked not only the end of his personal craftsmanship but also the closure of the Everett, Massachusetts, workshop that had outfitted many of the country’s early riders.  As his daughter’s note in the obituary read, “There will be no more Leathertogs. There is no one left to carry it on,” meaning not just that his family had no interest or the skills required to carry on, but also that Shaw had no manager or shop foreman capable of assuming control of manufacturing - if his production could truly be called that.  Leathertogs might more accurately be considered a small custom leather shop with a big impact.

Through years of my personal research—scouring countless issues of The Motorcyclist and Harley-Davidson’s in-house magazine, The Enthusiast, from the 1930s through the 1950s—it becomes evident that Leathertogs’ prominence peaked in the mid-to-late 1930s and continued through the mid-1940s. Photographs and articles from this era show numerous riders proudly wearing Shaw’s distinctive gear. By the late 1940s and into the 1950s, however, Leathertogs disappeared entirely from both photographs and publications, signaling the brand’s quiet exit from the stage it had helped define.

The postwar years ushered in a new generation of leather manufacturers with stronger production capabilities, wider distribution, and aggressive marketing. Brands such as Buco, Harley-Davidson, Beck, Sears, and Montgomery Ward began offering competitively-priced motorcycle-specific jackets and breeches on a much larger scale. These companies filled the market vacuum left by Leathertogs, producing in greater volume and adapting to changing tastes in rider's apparel. With many soldiers (especially aviators) being issued leather gear during the war, it became more commonplace to see citizens wearing leather on motorcycles, and leather became everyday riding gear, rather than specialist or competition apparel.

Most surviving Leathertogs pieces and period photographs trace back to the late 1930s through the early 1940s—likely the company’s height in both creativity and output. Many riders who once wore Leathertogs had aged out of competition or daily motorcycling by the late 1940s, settling into family life and leaving their once-prized jackets stored away. As time passed, those garments—built for the lean, sporting bodies of their youth—no longer fit, both literally and figuratively, the lives of their owners who had outgrown them.

The final Leathertogs customers were likely served in late 1944 or early 1945, just before Henry Shaw’s passing. In the years that followed, a new generation of manufacturers redefined the look of motorcycling apparel. Buco’s J-100 'racing shirt' became a postwar motorcycle racing staple, while companies such as Schott and Durable popularized three-pocket double-breasted motorcycle jackets, as immortalized by Marlon Brando’s character 'Johnny' in the 1953 film The Wild One. Leathertog's distinctive D-pocket jackets, once synonymous with the adventurous spirit of the 1930s and early 1940s, fell out of style, but the foundation laid by Leathertogs endured.

Leathertogs’ influence persisted in the overall designs, jacket models, patterns, and small metal embellishments adopted by later manufacturers. The distinctive D-pocket and other design elements were notably carried forward in some of Sears’ 'Hercules'-labeled motorcycle jackets, and in Buco’s J-21, J-22, J-24, and J-31 models. These garments demonstrate how Leathertogs’ aesthetics, functional innovations, and attention to detail quietly shaped the next generation of motorcycle apparel.  The business that Henry Shaw founded in 1919 in Everett, Massachusetts, created designs that rippled through decades of motorcycle culture, and are an enduring testament to Shaw's craftsmanship, born from passion, ingenuity, and a love of the open road.

 

Read the whole Leathertogs saga in Parts 1-5 of The Lost Empire of Leathertogs.

 

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by Riley Ward

The Lost Empire of Leathertogs, Part 2

[Written and researched by Riley Ward, edited by Paul d'Orléans]

Building the First Leather Motorcycle Jackets

The exact founding date of Leathertogs remains uncertain, though some evidence supports an establishment year of 1919, based on an extant company catalogue bearing the original logo and trademark. A conflicting source is a 1928 newspaper advertisement celebrating Leathertogs’ "five-year anniversary", suggesting 1923 as the year of formation, but they had been advertising in magazines a year before that, so perhaps the anniversary was only at the Malden location. The earliest known Leathertogs advertisements appeared in various issues of American Motorcycle & Bicycle Illustrated in 1922, suggesting the 1919 origin date is the accurate one.

Clearly, the available documentation makes it difficult to determine the exact foundation date for the Leathertogs business.  Because Leathertogs advertisements and garments can appear with either the Malden or Everett addresses, it is possible that two locations existed and served different purposes: perhaps one had retail manufacturing (associated with Beck and others) and the other for the custom manufacturing of the Leathertogs brand. Municipal boundaries may have also been in transition, affecting how the company’s location was recorded.

Henry Shaw was himself a motorcycle rider and enthusiast, who attended locally held events and designed products suited for real-world riding conditions, such as hill climbing, flat-track racing, and long-distance touring. He understood the benefit of a snug fit to repel the weather, and improve comfort during rides.  In its early years, Leathertogs produced a variety of items: woolen garments, leather helmets, horsehide coats, breeches, and wind cuffs, all primarily marketed to motorcyclists.  Over the next few years, Shaw developed new designs to better suit riders, that proved to be in parallel with developments in aviation clothing design.   Eventually his designs would be seen as iconic, and laid the foundation of the iconic 'biker' jacket.

Leathertogs: Innovation and Quality

Leathertogs' earliest known factories and showrooms were located at 282-A Broadway in Everett, Massachusetts (1922) and at 38 Commercial Street in Malden, Massachusetts (circa 1927), which later moved to 115 Centre Street (circa 1929). By the mid-to-late 1930s, operations had relocated permanently to Everett, Massachusetts, at 11 Spaulding Street—a location confirmed by numerous surviving company labels and print advertisements bearing the “Leathertogs” name and the location mark “Everett, Mass.”

Leathertogs distinguished itself as an innovator in the field of sporting clothing, and was among the first to advertise leather clothing for motorcyclists: at least by 1922. Shaw was also among the first leather manufacturers to utilize zippers instead of just buttons or snaps.  Zippers were an innovation in the 1920s, and still costly at the time, at times doubling the price of a garmet.  While the 'slide fastener' was first patented back in 1891, the all-metal zipper was developed in 1913 by Gideon Sundback.  It was BF Goodrich that coined the term 'zipper' in 1923, when they used Sundback's patent as quick closures for a line rubber boots.

The first fully separable zipper was invented in 1927 by Gideon Sundback: previously a zip-front jacket needed to be a pullover.  Schott claims to be the first manufacturer to use a zipper on a jacket in 1925, but the zipper would not be invented for another two years: perhaps they meant a pullover.  Sundback's applied for his patent in 1927, and added several improvements in the following years, which is likely why it took until 1930 for the first ads to appear hailing the zip-front as a new feature. Shaw was among the first to innovate with zippers on in his designs, quickly favoring them over traditional buttons to ensure a tight seal against the elements. Talon zippers, sourced from Pennsylvania, were predominantly used, and were known for their quality and reliability. Some surviving garments also feature zippers from Kwik and other manufacturers.

Shaw’s approach was uniquely comprehensive. Unlike many of his contemporaries, he didn’t just make 'off-the-rack' items, he offered customizable garments tailored to a rider’s specific measurements and needs, down to the placement of pockets or inclusion of specialty features. This was a rare offering in leatherwear at the time, and it distinguished Leathertogs as a company focused not only on performance but also on individual expression and rider experience.

Thus Shaw's designs mixed function with fashion: the jackets and breeches he developed were stylish, durable, and weather-resistant, embodying the spirit of the motorcyclist. His designs were informed by real-world feedback: Henry himself attended local motorcycle events, listened to riders who visited his shop, read motorcycle newspapers, and even named some of his jacket designs after famous riding and racing events across the U.S. (e.g., The Isle of Man/Tourist Trophy, The Muroc Special, The Daytona, The Grand Prix, and The Langhorne Racing Shirt).

Leathertogs reached its peak from the mid-1930s through the 1940s. The rise in motorcycle popularity during this period contributed directly to demand, and Leathertogs became a trusted name among serious riders.   The company was known for offering customized fits and modifications, which added to its prestige. By 1938, Leathertogs offered eleven jacket models and three styles of breeches, though only a few of these survive today in contemporary collections. Each piece emphasized durability, thoughtful design, and premium materials. Painted-on artwork was also available at an additional cost if desired, such as club logos, member names, or World War II squadron insignia.

By 1937, Henry’s son, Elwin Shaw, had joined the business as sales manager, taking on some of the company’s responsibilities. Leathertogs likely operated with a small, tight-knit team, as an independent workshop taking on bespoke clothing orders. Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, the company placed seasonal job listings in The Boston Globe for cutters, further suggesting a modest but active workshop as demand increased.

Design Details

 

Read the whole Leathertogs saga in Parts 1-5 of The Lost Empire of Leathertogs. 

 

 

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by Riley Ward