Riley Ward

The Lost Empire of Leathertogs, Part 1

[Written and researched by Riley Ward, edited by Paul d'Orléans]

Henry Shaw, The Man Who Invented Motorcycle Leathers

If you've ever wondered 'who invented the biker jacket', you're not alone.  Many brands have laid claim to that distinction, often giving credit to the Schott 'Perfecto', but anyone who's really dug into leather history knows the story goes much deeper, into brands that did not survive WW2, and whose products are hallowed objects to fanatical collectors of historical motorcycle gear.  We think the proper credit belongs to a long-forgotten man and brand from Everett Massachusetts called Leathertogs, and its founder Henry Franklin Shaw.  To understand why Henry Shaw’s work was so significant, and how his Leathertogs brand emerged, it’s important to step back and look at the broader cultural landscape of America between the 1890s and the 1910s. This was a period of rapid industrial growth and transformation—a time when manufacturing, innovation, and a spirit of adventure defined the American ethos.

The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw the rise of major industries: steel, railroads, and the booming automotive sector all helped shape a modernizing nation. Massive mills, tanneries, and metal forgeries sprang up near ports and inland industrial cities, attracting inventors, entrepreneurs, and workers eager to be part of this new American age. One of the most revolutionary inventions of the era was the airplane. The Wright brothers achieved the first controlled, powered flight in late 1903, although Glenn H. Curtiss built the first proper airplane in the world in 1908, which was capable of taking off under its own power, flying in a circle, and returning to its landing strip. It was no surprise Curtiss was so far ahead of the industry, as he had been building the fastest motorcycles in the USA since 1903, setting speed records, winning races, and generally trouncing his much better financed opposition.  By 1907 Curtiss began supplying engines for lighter-than-air craft, one of which he famously and controversially installed on a motorcycle for a land speed record attempt. By 1911 Curtiss was totally transfixed by flying, and handed his Curtiss motorcycle company over for others to run, although it didn't last long without his input.  Tales of his and others' aviation exploits rapidly captured the public's imagination - especially among the wealthy elite- who saw flight as an exciting future, an exhilarating sport, and a status symbol.

Alongside aviation, the motorized bicycle was gaining traction, particularly through emerging companies like Harley-Davidson (founded 1903) and Indian Motocycle (founded 1901). These machines were accessible to a wider audience than airplanes and equally quickly evolved into a national fascination. Initially a pastime of the privileged, motorcycle ownership, racing and road touring slowly spread across America, which was simultaneously growing abroad. Events like board track racing, hill climbs, and long-distance endurance rides gained popularity and inspired a new type of American adventurer: the motorcyclist.

As these machines became faster and more complex, riders faced a very real need for protective and weather-resistant gear. Early motorcycles lacked fairings or wind protection, and riders were exposed to cold, rain, road debris, and windburn. There was a clear opening to create purpose-built motorcycle clothing; garments that would offer protection, comfort, and style. Enter Henry Franklin Shaw, a skilled garment cutter with a creative mind and a sharp eye for detail. After gaining formative experience at the Stoughton Rubber Company as a raincoat cutter, Henry saw an opportunity to apply his talents to this growing niche. Between the years 1919–1923 he began designing leather and woolen gear tailored specifically for motorcyclists: long horsehide coats, leather breeches, riding mitts, leather caps, and possibly more.

Who was Henry Franklin Shaw?

Born on January 26, 1888, in Canton, Massachusetts, to William Franklin Shaw (1865–1956) and Lila Pierce Shaw (1866–1950), Henry Franklin Shaw was the first of seven children, four of whom did not survive childhood, and a third-generation Massachusetts-born member of the Shaw family. It is possible that Henry had English and/or other European ancestors further back in his lineage, based on his surname and information recorded on an official registration card from 1917. Some of the earliest known facts about Henry’s life indicate that he gained formative experience in garment construction at the Stoughton Rubber Company, where he worked as a raincoat cutter.

Stoughton specialized in waterproof garments, including mackintoshes, Cravenette raincoats, and automotive apparel. During this time, Shaw developed not only technical knowledge but also practical skills in business operations and material sourcing. According to his granddaughter, Kerry, Henry was very fond of the dance bands of the day, and may have even performed in local groups. She also recalled that he would ride his motorcycle to attend these events. Henry married Helen C. Shaw at the age of twenty-five, and their son, Elwin T. Shaw, was born toward the end of 1913. A daughter, Dorothy, followed in 1918.

Henry Shaw’s approach to designing motorcycle gear was uniquely comprehensive. Unlike many of his contemporaries, he didn’t just make “off-the-rack” items, he offered customizable garments tailored to a rider’s specific measurements and needs, down to the placement of pockets or inclusion of specialty features. This was a rare offering in leatherwear at the time, and it distinguished Leathertogs as a company focused not only on performance but also on individual expression and rider experience.  Thus Shaw's designs mixed function with fashion: the jackets and breeches he developed were stylish, durable, and weather-resistant, embodying the spirit of the motorcyclist. His designs were informed by real-world feedback: Henry himself attended local motorcycle events, listened to riders who visited his shop, read motorcycle newspapers, and even named some of his jacket designs after famous riding and racing events across the U.S. (e.g., The Isle of Man/Tourist Trophy, The Muroc Special, The Daytona, The Grand Prix, and The Langhorne Racing Shirt).

It’s likely that Leathertogs and other early leatherwear innovators had a 'design conversation' with the aviation world for inspiration. Pilots in the 1910s and ’20s were considered daring, stylish, and elite. Their attire - tight-fitting leather coats, jodhpurs, and caps - set the visual template for what “adventurers” should wear. One notable contemporary clothing manufacturer was A.G. Spalding & Bros., a New York-based outfitter that, during the same era, produced aviation garments and accessories under its “Aviation Clothing” line. Located geographically close to Leathertogs, Spalding utilized materials like sheepskin and horsehide and was among the earliest American manufacturers to offer specialized gear for pilots.

A passage from The Vintagent captures the influence of aviation perfectly: in the article A Girl and Her Scout – Josephine Vandell by Michael McCabe, Josephine reflects: “In the 1930s we didn’t have a lot of examples of how to do all this. We looked at pilots and airplanes for what to do. How to dress. Airplanes were still a new thing. Going fast and traveling. This was a new thing, ya. We were looking at flight.”

McCabe also notes, “Riding gear and aviation gear were very similar in the 1920s and ’30s, before flying suits became more specialized. Pilots were dashing and usually wealthy, setting the standard for suitable outfits. This young woman (pictured) in the 1920s wears high flying style, with a cinched leather coat and leather jodhpurs, a classic flying helmet with goggles, and high boots with speed laces—Flapper Chic!”

In this historical and cultural melting pot - where industry, speed, and style collided - Leathertogs was born. At its helm was Henry Franklin Shaw, an innovator, designer, and craftsman who saw the road ahead long before most others did, developing a line of protective motorcycle clothing in the early 1920s.

In Part 2, we'll look inside the jackets themselves, see why they worked so well, and discover why collectors now call them "phantoms."

 

 

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by Riley Ward