The Lost Empire of Leathertogs, Part 2

[Written and researched by Riley Ward, edited by Paul d’Orléans]

Building the First Leather Motorcycle Jackets

The exact founding date of Leathertogs remains uncertain, though some evidence supports an establishment year of 1919, based on an extant company catalogue bearing the original logo and trademark. A conflicting source is a 1928 newspaper advertisement celebrating Leathertogs’ “five-year anniversary”, suggesting 1923 as the year of formation, but they had been advertising in magazines a year before that, so perhaps the anniversary was only at the Malden location. The earliest known Leathertogs advertisements appeared in various issues of American Motorcycle & Bicycle Illustrated in 1922, suggesting the 1919 origin date is the accurate one.

Clearly, the available documentation makes it difficult to determine the exact foundation date for the Leathertogs business.  Because Leathertogs advertisements and garments can appear with either the Malden or Everett addresses, it is possible that two locations existed and served different purposes: perhaps one had retail manufacturing (associated with Beck and others) and the other for the custom manufacturing of the Leathertogs brand. Municipal boundaries may have also been in transition, affecting how the company’s location was recorded.

Henry Shaw was himself a motorcycle rider and enthusiast, who attended locally held events and designed products suited for real-world riding conditions, such as hill climbing, flat-track racing, and long-distance touring. He understood the benefit of a snug fit to repel the weather, and improve comfort during rides.  In its early years, Leathertogs produced a variety of items: woolen garments, leather helmets, horsehide coats, breeches, and wind cuffs, all primarily marketed to motorcyclists.  Over the next few years, Shaw developed new designs to better suit riders, that proved to be in parallel with developments in aviation clothing design.   Eventually his designs would be seen as iconic, and laid the foundation of the iconic ‘biker’ jacket.

Leathertogs: Innovation and Quality

Leathertogs’ earliest known factories and showrooms were located at 282-A Broadway in Everett, Massachusetts (1922) and at 38 Commercial Street in Malden, Massachusetts (circa 1927), which later moved to 115 Centre Street (circa 1929). By the mid-to-late 1930s, operations had relocated permanently to Everett, Massachusetts, at 11 Spaulding Street—a location confirmed by numerous surviving company labels and print advertisements bearing the “Leathertogs” name and the location mark “Everett, Mass.”

Leathertogs distinguished itself as an innovator in the field of sporting clothing, and was among the first to advertise leather clothing for motorcyclists: at least by 1922. Shaw was also among the first leather manufacturers to utilize zippers instead of just buttons or snaps.  Zippers were an innovation in the 1920s, and still costly at the time, at times doubling the price of a garmet.  While the ‘slide fastener’ was first patented back in 1891, the all-metal zipper was developed in 1913 by Gideon Sundback.  It was BF Goodrich that coined the term ‘zipper’ in 1923, when they used Sundback’s patent as quick closures for a line rubber boots.

The first fully separable zipper was invented in 1927 by Gideon Sundback: previously a zip-front jacket needed to be a pullover.  Schott claims to be the first manufacturer to use a zipper on a jacket in 1925, but the zipper would not be invented for another two years: perhaps they meant a pullover.  Sundback’s applied for his patent in 1927, and added several improvements in the following years, which is likely why it took until 1930 for the first ads to appear hailing the zip-front as a new feature. Shaw was among the first to innovate with zippers on in his designs, quickly favoring them over traditional buttons to ensure a tight seal against the elements. Talon zippers, sourced from Pennsylvania, were predominantly used, and were known for their quality and reliability. Some surviving garments also feature zippers from Kwik and other manufacturers.

Shaw’s approach was uniquely comprehensive. Unlike many of his contemporaries, he didn’t just make ‘off-the-rack’ items, he offered customizable garments tailored to a rider’s specific measurements and needs, down to the placement of pockets or inclusion of specialty features. This was a rare offering in leatherwear at the time, and it distinguished Leathertogs as a company focused not only on performance but also on individual expression and rider experience.

Thus Shaw’s designs mixed function with fashion: the jackets and breeches he developed were stylish, durable, and weather-resistant, embodying the spirit of the motorcyclist. His designs were informed by real-world feedback: Henry himself attended local motorcycle events, listened to riders who visited his shop, read motorcycle newspapers, and even named some of his jacket designs after famous riding and racing events across the U.S. (e.g., The Isle of Man/Tourist Trophy, The Muroc Special, The Daytona, The Grand Prix, and The Langhorne Racing Shirt).

Leathertogs reached its peak from the mid-1930s through the 1940s. The rise in motorcycle popularity during this period contributed directly to demand, and Leathertogs became a trusted name among serious riders.   The company was known for offering customized fits and modifications, which added to its prestige. By 1938, Leathertogs offered eleven jacket models and three styles of breeches, though only a few of these survive today in contemporary collections. Each piece emphasized durability, thoughtful design, and premium materials. Painted-on artwork was also available at an additional cost if desired, such as club logos, member names, or World War II squadron insignia.

By 1937, Henry’s son, Elwin Shaw, had joined the business as sales manager, taking on some of the company’s responsibilities. Leathertogs likely operated with a small, tight-knit team, as an independent workshop taking on bespoke clothing orders. Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, the company placed seasonal job listings in The Boston Globe for cutters, further suggesting a modest but active workshop as demand increased.

Design Details